Garage Floor Insulation Leave a comment

Spread the love

Ron insulated between the rafters and installed a workshop/garage heater in his workshop, but the concrete slab still remained really cold. Ron decided to install a new insulated floor system, as well.

The first step is to clear everything out and sweep the floor clean.

DRIcore floor system

Back of DRIcore

The sub-flooring material Ron used is a product called DRIcore. This is an engineered wood product made up of wood chips or flakes that are compressed under high pressure using waterproof glue. On the back side of each panel is a polyethylene moisture barrier.

When using this product, it is important to bring it inside at least 24

hours before installation. This will allow the material to acclimate to both the temperature and the humidity in the room.

The sub floor comes in two-foot squares that interlock with each other using tongue in groove joinery. Glue is not used in this

floor system.

Tongue and groove

Edge spacers

This is called a floating floor system, which means it is not attached to the concrete underneath, but instead sits or floats on top. This entire floor expands and contract with changes in humidity and temperature, which means you need to use spacers around the edges of the floor to create a quarter inch gap. When the floor installation is complete, the spacers can be removed so that the gap enables the floor to move

as it needs to.

After each tile is set in place, set a tapping block on the edge of the panel and tap it gently with a hammer to secure the joint firmly


Tapping block

If your existing floor is uneven, use a straight edge to locate the low spots, which will create a gap underneath the straight edge.

The floor panels are easily adaptable to these irregularities with simple shims that are designed to fit over the molded panel bottoms. If necessary, you can stack up to four of these on top of each other. Masking tape helps hold the shims in place

when you flip the panels over.


Measure edge of panel to wall

When you come to the end of your first row, you will probably need a piece smaller than a full panel to fill the remaining space. Simply measure the space, set your table saw fence to the required dimension, and then make the cut. A hand held circular saw or jigsaw can also be used to make these simple cuts.

The cut piece drops into place, but you will not be able to use a hammer and tapping block to tighten up the joint. Instead, use a tool called a pinch bar, which slips into the gap next to the wall and hooks over the edge of the panel. The opposite end is bent upward to form a striking surface. A few hammer blows brings the joints tightly together. Begin the second row by staggering the joints so that they fall directly in the center of the boards of the first row.

Staggering the rows in this way creates a much more stable floor.

Pinch bar

Measure for panel notch

When working in a doorway, you will need to notch out a panel to fit around the corner.

The easiest way to do this is to set the panel in place and then use a straight edge or square to extend the wall lines onto the



A jigsaw makes cutting out the notch quick and simple.

Not only does this floor go in quickly and easily, but it also looks good. It is an ideal sub-floor for wood, carpet, vinyl or laminate.

Floor almost complete

Rolling out G-floor

Because Ron was installing his floor in a garage and workshop he decided on something called the G-floor from Better Life Technologies for his floor surface. This garage floor covering comes in nine-foot widths and simply rolls out, but it lies perfectly flat and stays in place without the need for adhesive.

In just a couple of minutes, this material transforms the look and

feel of the entire floor.

To trim the edges, use either a hook shaped utility knife blade, or a pair of scissors. Simply cut the floor to fit as you work your way around the edge of the room. To hold the seams tightly together, apply double stick carpet tape to

the back of the floor.

Hooked shaped utility blade is used to cut floor cover

Carefully remove the protective liner from only one side, because you want the tape to stick only to the covering and not to the underlayment. This leaves the floor covering free to expand and

contract with changes in temperature and humidity.

Remove any bubbles or ripples with a push broom, working from the center to the edges. This new flooring is tough, durable and good looking. If you ever plan to park a car on this surface, it is resistant to oil and gasoline.

The floor is not attached to anything, so you can easily remove it if you ever need to. Although this new floor covering is only about an inch thick, it still offers a pretty good insulation value, which can make any workspace much more


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *