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Paving Stones

In this tutorial we explain how to lay a paving block path. For added style and ease we have replaced traditional paving stone concrete edging with 125×125 senton posts. This method of edging not only creates a great look, but also makes the project easier for those attempting it. We are using common solid concrete cobblestone paving blocks 230mm long x 190mm wide x 60mm thick. These pavers come in a variety of colours for individual tastes. Other materials required include basecourse metal (gap 20) and sand. All materials are ready avaliable in the Auckland area. This project is suitable for moderate to firm ground. If your ground is soft, you will need to excavate deeper and replace with basecourse metal.

Step 1:

Excavations Dig out the proposed pathway to a depth of 150mm below finished path height (usually existing ground level) and the required path width. Try to plan the width of the path so that full pavers can be placed without the need for cutting. When working out the overall path width, allow an extra 3mm between each paver (spacings that allow sand to penetrate around the pavers). Some pavers have space nibs (packers) already on them.

Step 2:

Putting down the edging. Lay a bed of sand along each side of the path excavation approximately 40mm thick and about 200mm wide.

Lay the edge boards (125×125 senton posts) on top of the sand and tamp down into place until the top of the edge boards are at the required path finished height. Retain them in place with stakes nailed to the

outside and trim the stakes off 20mm below the top of the edging board. (see drawing below)

Step 3:

Base course Add a layer of GAP 20 base course in between the edging boards. (GAP 20 is a mixture of rock. The abbreviation, GAP 20, General All Passing, means the metal is graded to one certain size, 20mm in this case, and everything below this size is included in the product).

Add and compact the base course with a mechanical plate vibrator until the finished height is 85mm down from the top of the edge boards. At the same time compact the soil against the outside of the edge boards thus ensuring they stay in place parellel.

You can hire a plate vibrator from your local hire centre.

Step 4:

Bedding sand Add a layer of bedding or paving sand (approximately 35mm) and level with a screeding board so the finished height is 50mm down from the top of the edge boards.

Step 5:

Laying the paving stones Commence laying the pavers from one end of the path. (work uphill). Space the pavers approx 3 mm to allow filling sand to penetrate around the pavers. Kneel on a board across the area you have already laid. Use full pavers only, go back later and fill in with the cut ones.

Step 6:

Compacting and putting in joint sand The pavers should now be, prior to compacting, 10mm above required finished height. Compact the pavers consistantly with the plate vibrator. The final step is to brush jointing or filling sand over the surface. This fills the joints and binds the

pavers together. Vibrate again.

note 1: Purchase all the pavers from the same place and batch to ensure consistancy of colour.

note 2: Any paving against buildings should be at least 150mm below concrete floor level or below ground level under timber floors. The paving should slope away from the building.




125×125 senton posts, h5 treated

comes in various lengths. Sold at most timber merchants.

Cobblestone paving blocks. 230mm x 190mm x 60mm thick

A common paver. Comes in a variety of colors. Requires 23 pavers per sq meter.

Paving / filling sand

Sold loose in increments of quater cubic metre. or in handy bags (more expensive). One cubic metre would be enough to do a path 1m wide x 30m long or 30 sq metres

GAP 20 Base course

GAP 20, General All Passing, is a mixture of crushed rock graded to 20mm and everything

below. One cubic metre would be enough to do a path 1m wide x 12m long or 12 sq metres

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